Sewing thread guide menswear
Shirt
Fine-threaded fabrics, special features and complex work processes – shirts are made for professionals. Sewing threads are suitable for closing and lockstitch seams, which are reliable on automatic sewing machines and can withstand high stresses.
Pos. | Seam type | Stitch type | Stitch density | Needle thread | Bobbin or looper thread | Recommended needle size | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Per cm | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Nm | Singer | |||
1 | Closing and topstitch seams | 301 | 5 | Mara | 150 | 20 | Mara | 150 | 20 | 65 – 70 | 9 – 10 |
2 | Closing seams | 401 | 5 | Mara | 150 | 20 | Mara | 150 | 20 | 65 – 70 | 9 – 10 |
3 | Serging seams | 504 | 5 | Mara | 220 | 13 | Mara | 220 | 13 | 65 – 70 | 9 – 10 |
4 | Button hole | 304 | – | Mara | 150 | 20 | Mara | 150 | 20 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
5 | Sew button | 107 | – | Mara | 150 | 20 | Mara | 150 | 20 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
Pos. | Seam type | Stitch type | Stitch density | Needle thread | Bobbin or looper thread | Recommended needle size | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Per cm | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Nm | Singer | |||
1 | Closing and topstitch seams | 301 | 5 | Perma Core® Ultimate | 180 | 16 | Perma Core® Ultimate | 180 | 16 | 65 – 70 | 9 – 10 |
2 | Closing seams | 401 | 5 | Perma Core® Ultimate | 180 | 16 | Perma Core® Ultimate | 180 | 16 | 65 – 70 | 9 – 10 |
3 | Serging seams | 504 | 5 | Perma Core® Ultimate | 180 | 16 | Perma Core® Ultimate | 180 | 16 | 65 – 70 | 9 – 10 |
4 | Button hole | 304 | – | Perma Core® Ultimate | 180 | 16 | Perma Core® Ultimate | 180 | 16 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
5 | Sew button | 107 | – | Perma Core® Ultimate | 180 | 16 | Perma Core® Ultimate | 180 | 16 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
Jacket
Semi-transparent polyester sewing threads are suitable for seam and padding work. They are particularly fine, very easy to sew and offer very high colour matching. Colour deviations are thus reduced to a minimum and seam marks are avoided during ironing.
Pos. | Seam type | Stitch type | Stitch density | Needle thread | Bobbin or looper thread | Recommended needle size | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Per cm | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Nm | Singer | |||
1 | Closing and topstitch seams | 301 | 4 | Mara | 120 | 25 | Mara | 120 | 25 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
2 | Closing seams | 401 | 4 | Mara | 120 | 25 | Mara | 120 | 25 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
3 | Button hole | 404 | – | Mara | 70 | 40 | Mara | 70 | 40 | 90 – 100 | 14 – 16 |
4 | Sew button | 304 | – | Mara | 80 | 40 | Mara | 80 | 40 | 90 – 100 | 14 – 16 |
5 | Edge stitch seam | 209 | nach Designvorgabe | Mara | 30 | 100 | – | – | – | 100 – 120 | 16 – 19 |
6 | Bar tack | 304 | – | Mara | 80 | 40 | Mara | 80 | 40 | 80 – 90 | 12 – 14 |
Pos. | Seam type | Stitch type | Stitch density | Needle thread | Bobbin or looper thread | Recommended needle size | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Per cm | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Nm | Singer | |||
1 | Closing and topstitch seams | 301 | 4 | Perma Core® | 120 | 24 | Perma Core® | 120 | 24 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
2 | Closing seams | 401 | 4 | Perma Core® | 120 | 24 | Perma Core® | 120 | 24 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
3 | Button hole | 404 | – | Perma Core® | 75 | 40 | Perma Core® | 75 | 40 | 90 – 100 | 14 – 16 |
4 | Sew button | 304 | – | Perma Core® | 75 | 40 | Perma Core® | 75 | 40 | 90 – 100 | 14 – 16 |
5 | Edge stitch seam | 209 | nach Designvorgabe | Perma Core® | 36 | 80 | – | – | – | 100 – 120 | 16 – 19 |
6 | Bar tack | 304 | – | Perma Core® | 120 | 24 | Perma Core® | 120 | 24 | 80 – 90 | 12 – 14 |
Trousers
Trousers should look good and fit perfectly. Tear- and rub-resistant sewing threads are used for closing and holding seams, from intermediate production, pocket and waistband processing, to assembly and finishing.
Pos. | Seam type | Stitch type | Stitch density | Needle thread | Bobbin or looper thread | Recommended needle size | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Per cm | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Nm | Singer | |||
1 | Closing and topstitch seams | 301 | 4 | Mara | 120 | 25 | Mara | 120 | 25 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
2 | Seat seam | 401 | 5 | Mara | 100 | 30 | Mara | 100 | 30 | 80 – 90 | 12 – 14 |
3 | Serging seams | 504 | 4 | Mara | 120 | 25 | E 121 | 240 | 12 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
4 | Button hole | 404 | – | Mara | 70 | 40 | Mara | 70 | 40 | 90 – 100 | 14 – 16 |
5 | Sew button | 304 | – | Mara | 80 | 40 | Mara | 80 | 40 | 80 – 90 | 12 – 14 |
6 | Blindstitch seams | 103 | 4 | Skala | 240 | 12 | – | – | – | 60 – 65 | 8 – 9 |
7 | Bar tack | 304 | – | Mara | 80 | 40 | Mara | 80 | 40 | 80 – 90 | 12 – 14 |
Pos. | Seam type | Stitch type | Stitch density | Needle thread | Bobbin or looper thread | Recommended needle size | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Per cm | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Article | Ticket no. | Tex no. | Nm | Singer | |||
1 | Closing and topstitch seams | 301 | 4 | Perma Core® | 120 | 24 | Perma Core® | 120 | 24 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
2 | Seat seam | 401 | 5 | Perma Core® | 100 | 30 | Perma Core® | 100 | 30 | 80 – 90 | 12 – 14 |
3 | Serging seams | 504 | 4 | Perma Core® | 120 | 24 | Wildcat Plus® | 160 | 18 | 70 – 80 | 10 – 12 |
4 | Button hole | 404 | – | Perma Core® | 75 | 40 | Perma Core® | 75 | 40 | 90 – 100 | 14 – 16 |
5 | Sew button | 304 | – | Perma Core® | 75 | 40 | Perma Core® | 75 | 40 | 80 – 90 | 12 – 14 |
6 | Blindstitch seams | 103 | 4 | Skala | 240 | 12 | – | – | – | 60 – 65 | 8 – 9 |
7 | Bar tack | 304 | – | Perma Core® | 75 | 40 | Perma Core® | 75 | 40 | 80 – 90 | 12 – 14 |
Disclaimer sewing thread guide menswear
Please note that the recommendations given are based on general experience, which may vary in individual cases depending on the respective application and the materials used. For individual technical sewing advice on specific applications or other A&E Gütermann products not mentioned here, please contact our knowledgeable specialists via contact@guetermann.com